
The danger of a constant supply of photographic evidence of vino, aperitivo, high heels and temporal denial, is that to the casual observer it may appear that one’s days in Rome are spent in a kind of Dolce Vita indulgence. Naturally, all the above is present and accounted for on a regular basis – but what the photographic evidence so far has neglected, is the main bulk of one’s time, namely all the lengthy hours spent musing over catalogues, maps, dig reports, tracing down ruins and obelisks out and about in the city, and so on and so forth. These affairs are less photographic in nature, to begin with, so it was somewhat of an occupational hazard. To set the record straight –and because it may, in fact, be interesting too- here follows a brief overview of one’s recent expedition in pursuit of Neronian spacial analysis.
While assisting professor Paul Meyboom of Leiden University with his new Domus Aurea project/article (of which the specific contents need to remain under wraps until publication in due course), a thorough masterclass in mapping, spolia-spotting and analysis of multi-temporal territories was well on its way. Or, differently put, we spent days climbing every hill, stairway and slope in sight on the Oppius, Caelius, Claudio and Palatine hills in blazing sunshine and 30 degrees heat, pursuing aqueduct ruins and hypothetical walls. Such a venture takes quite some Sherlock Holmesian audacity and deductive powers, at that. Take, for instance, the case of the Porta Caelimontana.

At close inspection, this piece of trans-temporal architecture turns out to consist of, in fact, three different portals at once. First, the Republican Arch of Dolabella - built from travertine limestone (A). Secondly, remaining supportive arches of the Neronian aqueduct, from brick (B) – which, in late Medieval/early Renaissance times, was incorporated into a renovated version of the Porta Caelimontana (C). Moreover, some remaining patches of tuff stone even suggest remains of the ancient Servian Wall. There is not quite enough evidence here to conclude right-out that this would indicate a fourth (Servian) layer to the portal; it may just be a case of re-used material taken from the Servian Wall elsewhere. But this does illustrate the complex nature of the vast majority of buildings in Rome.

Throughout time, material culture keeps shape-shifting, adapting, changing, relocating. And the Eternal City of Rome is the ultimate place for time travel. Every little church may harbour a wealth of ‘spolia’ (fragmentary ancient remains re-used in later buildings, partially or completely out of their original context), which, in turn, may lead to yet again altered drafts of hypothetical maps. For example, below my scribbles-from-the-field from the Basilica Santi Quattro Coronati – drawn in haste to map out possible spolia columns and capitals just a minute before Evening Mass banned Science from the Holy Grounds.

(I now have no more excuses to complain about 19th Century scribbles in dig reports, as mine are even worse!)
And then after the fieldwork, such spacial analysis results will converge into many (hypothetically) altered maps and preliminary schedules – which usually then again give cause to head back to the spot and make sure you really interpreted that particular sightline or anomaly correctly.
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Finally, all this should lead to new theories and new insights into the shape and nature of ancient Rome, within that specific time period that you set out tracing ruins from. And then, when an all-new find actually gets dug out of the ground (such as the recent find of Nero’s fabled but never before seen rotating ‘rotonda’ dining room at the edge of the Palatine), the whole hypothetical map usually will start shape-shifting once again, and all-new spacial analysis will be leading to all-new hypotheses all over again.

(Repubblica: discovery of Nero’s rotating dining room)
No wonder they call Rome La Città Eterna: it really is a place of endless, eternal time travel. And this is not restricted to the more ancient pasts. As it turned out, while in search of Nero’s palace, we found ourselves on top of Mussolini’s facade along the Via dei Fori Imperiali (built in 1932, after major demolitions to clear the area). Quite strange, and even a little unnerving, to suddenly literally share Il Duce’s line of sight while scouting for Roman ruins.


(Above: current view of Via dei Fori Imperiali. Below: photos of the 1932 demolitions)
But not all Eternal Time Travel in Rome involves ancient Imperial palaces with rotating dining rooms or Fascist demolitions. There are countless hidden treasures of history –beautiful, strange, remarkable, unforgettable history– waiting in the bend of an alley, as long as you know where to look. So, I will end my jolt of space-time scribbles with this barely noticeable sign in a nondescript alley near Piazza del Popolo, which reads: “Here have lived Guilietta Masina and Federico Fellini”. No need to say any more. After all, some things are simply timeless – and Guilietta Masina’s Gelsomina with her trumpet from ‘La Strada’ is definitely among those.

Allora - in the end, isn’t that all that Rome really is? The unpredictable, often incomprehensible “Strada” that just keeps on going; like the beautiful, wistful, invisible and unnamed song of an old trumpet.